Sunday, August 22, 2010

Broadheads v. Field Points

Every season I have the same discussion and see the same subject on various Bowhunting sites. The questions vary but the subject is always the same.... "Do your broadheads and field points shoot the same?" or "How do I get my field points and broadheads to hit in the same spot?" From experience I know that there are people that are going to disagree with what I am about to say, but that's the cool thing about a "blog!"

An arrow with a field point is a TOTALLY different projectile than the same arrow with a broadhead. I wouldn't shoot a 150gr SoftPoint and a 150gr. Boat-tail Hollow Point out of my 30.06 and expect them to hit in the same hole because they are DIFFERENT. I personally don't give it a second thought where they hit in relation to each other. During the 8 months of "off season" I shoot 99% of the time with field points in my arrows and the bow is perfectly set-up to shoot THOSE. When I start to get ready to go hunting I will shoot my Broadheads. Sometimes they hit a little right, sometimes a little left, up or down. As long as I can CONSISTANTLY shoot the same type arrow (in this case one with a broadhead) in the same spot, I know my bow is "tuned." Only you know what an "acceptable" group size will be for you, but if you can keep the arrows inside that group, you are good to go. Move your sight so that your group is now in the middle. After all, that's why they make sights that are so easily adjusted. Don't be afraid to move it!!!

Now before any of you think "Toby doesn't care about bow tuning" let me clarify some things.

1. If your bow is not "tuned" you will not be able to shoot a group with your broadheads. You now have "wings" on the front and the back of the arrow and if they are not both headed in the same direction you are going to have problems.

2. Arrow SPINE is always critical, but it is super critical with broadheads. If your arrow spine is too weak you will never get satisfactory broadhead flight. A good match between draw weight, arrow length and arrow spine is a must.

3. Good shooting FORM is a must. Any flaw in your form or shot execution will be magnified when shooting broadheads.

4. An "acceptable group" with broadheads is the same size as an "acceptable group'' with field points. One person's group may be the size of a quarter, another the size of a softball and yet another may be the size of a beachball at 20 yards. While I hope the beachball shooter practices before going in the woods, thats as good as it gets!

Are you seeing a pattern? Broadheads are going to magnify any problems that you have with spine, set-up or shooting form. But if they are shooting well enough for YOU to shoot as good of a group as YOU are currently capable, move your sight to center your group eactly where you are aiming and be done with it.

It is crucial that the broadhead is perfectly aligned with the shaft. If it's not you will never achieve the accuracy that you are capable of. Just as I said above, you now have "wings" on the front and the back and if the broadhead is not straight, you are doomed before you even let go of the string. Most of the newer broadheads will spin perfectly true straight out of the package, but if they don't you need to "true them up." You can sometimes do this with plastic washers that come with some models, other times you will need to actually bend the head so that it is perfectly in line with the shaft. You will need to spin the arrow in order to tell if it is true. (no wobble) If you spin it in your palm... BE CAREFUL!

There ya go! My 2 cents worth on broadheads. Post me some comments...... agree/disagree questions/statements... let's hear it.
See Ya At The Shop!


  1. I've always been able to tune my bow so that broadheads and field tips hit the same spot. I understand your points, (pun intended) but I'm going to disagree with you.

  2. Coon, I accept your "disagree vote". But for the record, nowhere did I say that it "couldn't" be done.... I just don't see the need for it to be done. I have still never (44 years) had anyone give me a valid reason why they consider it mandatory. But to each their own..... Good Luck this season!

  3. One other thing to remember is that the type and manufacturer of the broadhead makes a difference as well. Some do fly "truer" than others...

    In basic practice and all things equal (which they never are), I agree with Toby - you cannot shoot your bow enough with arrows loaded with broadheads to truly achieve a grouping that you can depend on.

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  5. I found some fab. broadheads from
    What you guyzzzzz suggest me which is are the best broadheads for archery.

  6. Best broadheads are Ramcats, If your bow is tuned properly for field points these heads will fly exactly the same.